From being close to annihilation, Sarajevo’s historic centre has been restored and rejuvenated with elegant cafes and welcoming bars.The city is a curious architectural mix of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian buildings amid a skyline of spires and minarets.In the evening, we dine with a local family who welcome us into their apartment and cook for us.
Our transport is a customised Mercedes Benz with wi-fi and extra leg room – a far cry from the image of coach travel.
This was where, in late June 1914, Gavrilo Princip, a 19-year-old Bosnian Serb, assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary, and his wife.
The event sparked the outbreak of the First World War.
We see parts of the city made infamous by 1990s TV news reports when civilians sought cover in downtown Sarajevo.
There’s Sniper Alley where locals ran under the sights of Serb gunmen firing on the city from the surrounding hills, and the Holiday Inn hotel, a base for many journalists.